Lug Sails were our originally speciality before we moved into sailmaking 7 years ago. We started off with lugs in the late 1980s with an interest in finding how modern performance sailing techniques and setups would work with lugsails.
We found out that applying lessons of modern sailing rigs worked for lugsail setup as well. Low stretch lines, controlling rig power with automatic spar bend and the single most important performance sailing development over the last century and a half … controlling sail twist.
The same lessons apply to lugsail setup. However there are some differences in the way this information is applied.
The most important thing is that these are all things that are to be understood. The lug rig is probably the cheapest and fastest way to rig a boat and get it on the water. If it takes more than 10 minutes to set up for sailing, then read through the guide links below.
Really Simple Sails – Expertise Small Boat Lug Rig Set Up
The links below are hugely useful for sailing dinghies and trailer yachts with lugsails.
We are also well placed to help you troubleshoot any issues. Our boat design arm, Storer Boat Plans has had the most comprehensive resources on Lug Rig Setup on the net for the last two decades. And that was before we started making sails.
The purpose of the information below is to provide a guide for all users of Lug Sails. Whether you use our sails or not.
Control Line and Lashing Sizes for Sails
For boats up to 16ft (4.8m) and sails up to 90sf (8.5sq metres) all rigging except the mainsheet can be be 4mm spectra (sometimes called dyneema) with a polyester outer.
Corner lashings for the sails we remove the outer to make the threading a bit easy and just use the pure spectra/dyneema core to reduce the diameter. Spectra/dyneema has very good wear and UV resistance. Start the corner lashings with a bowline and finish off with two or three half hitches.
As sails get bigger a 5mm halyard to make pulling the sail up a bit easier. But for the performance minded the 4mm will still be OK up to around 110sf (10sq metres).
Where sail lacing is used along the edges of the sails it can be 3mm polyester. A polyester rope with a core will handle chafe much better over time.
Downhaul is the Most Important Adjustment on the Lug Sail for Performance
The most important line on a lug rig is the downhaul. There are more elaborate setups with downhauls but I recommend the most simple one. It can actually just be a simple lashing for trials and the main downhaul made adjustable at least later. The mizzen is right to hand so could just be permanently lashed.
If there is not enough downhaul tension a diagonal crease will appear or get worse when the mainsheet is tensioned. It runs from the clew to the throat of the sail. In general the downhaul can only be low tension in extremely light wind. In moderate winds the upwind downhaul tension is very tight with a downhaul that twangs. For strong winds the tension should be very high indeed.
There are a whole range of downhaul options. The main thing to realise is that the things that make conventional rigs sail well are exactly the same on lugs. But they are a combination of needing luff tension like a jib and also tension to control sail twist (as the downhaul acts like a vang. The most simple system is in the link below. It is a good way to setup as it is so simple and fast to adjust. We set up the racing Oz Geese with good sail shape this way. Same ideas as a conventional rig but achieved a bit differently. Go simple to start with and play with options later.
Controlling Sail Twist on Balance and other lug rigs. – Storer Boat Plans in Wood and Plywood
Outhaul – Front Sail Should Be Thought of Like a Jib with a Curved Foot
For outhaul on the mainsail you do want to have some curve in the bottom of the sail. Don’t pull it out flat – you want power there to get upwind and overtensioning the foot will lose you this critical depth. That depth is low down power. It drives the boat when the sail is eased in a gust and top is flattened and quite possibly flagging.
This is a technical weakness for many sailors used to sloops. They think of the lug mainsail (which doesn’t usually have a jib) as if the sail has a jib in front. But really the front sail of any rig should be set up like a jib.
- For the front sail – the sheeting angle or boom angle should not be oversheeted. An angle of 10 degrees for both boomed and boomless sails is correct for the front sail. Sails behind that can be sheeted tighter.
- For boomed sails where they are the front sail we want depth/curvature in the foot of the sail.
Basic Rundown on Setting up the Lug Sail
Below is easily the best rope only halyard system for lugs. The right takeoff for the halyard is 45 to 50 percent along the yard. The correct downhaul position is to get the sail into the correct angle. And to avoid the boom dangling down into the cockpit at the back.
Rigging guide for Goat Island Skiff – Efficient lug sails – Storer Boat Plans in Wood and Plywood
Knots and Lashings for Lug Rigs – the right knots in the right place – also the cheapest possible method.
The reason for the cheapness of the lug rig setup is that so much effective rigging can be set up using line rather than expensive manufactured fittings.
This is the fitting list for our Racing Oz Goose Sailboats
- Rudder fittings
- Stainless steel ring or small pulley for top of mast
- 4″ (100mm) plastic cleat for halyard
- 3 x mainsheet pulley blocks.
All other functional parts of the boat are made with rope.
The link below is a good run through the lugsail setup with the right forms of knots and lashings. The right FORM of attachment is necessary to prevent stuff moving around unnecessarily.
The clove hitch with stopper is very useful for the downhaul attachment. Putting the lines behind that original knot prevents the downhaul slipping forward. If there is a problem with the downhaul clove hitch some gaffer tape around the boom at that point. Then tie the clove hitch and stopper. Leathering is an alternative if that is your thing).
The below is the basic method for the oz geese we race in the Philippines. There is neither money or availability of fancy (or even basic boat fittings.
What are the Methods for Reefing a Lug Sail
For reefing there are a bunch of different options. I do like permanently roved main reef lines for the luff to save going forward. I cleat with CL217mk2 clam cleats. as the reef line can be removed completely from the cleat to release.. Don’t use the plastic ones they wear out too fast.
For the back end of the sail we attach the outhaul with a carabiner. Then instead of any adjustment or purchase … there are spectra loops in the Leach reef grommets/eyes that are tied to the right length to just drop into the carabiner. The line clips into the carabiner without detaching the outhaul. And it takes a couple of seconds with no messing around. The loop method is in this video.
Most boats don’t use the lazyjacks as there are times in small boats you just want to get the rig down and sit on it. Also they can complicate getting the rig and mast up and down. But a multi is more tolerant to heeling forces so may be OK. But you will have to see if you like the sailing qualities first.
(8) Lug Sail Reefing, first try on my Goat Island Skiff. – YouTube
Some Sail Handling Tricks for Maximum Downwind Power and Control
Also some info on divided rigs.
Summary for lug rigs and lugsail setup
Hope this helps get into the fast lane! And with better control in stronger winds.
This might look complicated but really becomes a subset quick actions when rigging.
These are set up in advance and stay pretty much in the same place
- Corner lashings to hold corners of sails against their spars
- halyard position on yard – this can be moved very easily but not move while sailing
- Downhaul position
These are set up when rigging
- Attach halyard and hoist sail to required height
- Downhaul tension
- Outhaul tension
- Thread mainsheet
